How-To: The Easiest Chain Stitch for Hand Embroidery

by Jenny Hart 01/12/2013

You will never work a chain stitch the same way again. I haven't.

The "chain stitch" is the one everyone has heard of, but hates to do. Why? Because it's laborious. It doesn't always come out nicely and it uses up a lot of floss. But, chain stitches create a nice thick, textured line. It's one of the most embroidery-ish embroidery stitches there is. This technique will guarantee they always come out perfectly. Bold claim? You'll see...

A student named Kirstin in one of my embroidery workshops pulled me aside and said, almost guiltily: "do you want to see how I work chain stitches?" My jaw dropped. So has the jaw of every other person I've shared this with since then. I told her I'd love to share it with my readers and she gave her blessing! This is her chain stitch technique:

Step 1: Make a small stitch. Not too big, not too little. Not pulled too tight.

Step 2: Come up a short distance away from the end of the stitch, and pass the tip of your needle through it.

Step 3: Pull your floss all the way through.

Embroidery Chain Stitch

Step 4: Re-insert your needle into the same hole that your floss exited (left photo). Pull all the way through (right photo).

(All by itself, this is called an "isolated chain stitch".) What next?

Embroidery Chain Stitch

Step 5: Repeat! Pass needle through the last loop, pull the floss all the way through, re-enter your needle, pull all the way through...and make chain stitches all day long:

Sublime Floss colors: Flowerbox

HOLD IT! Did you notice these are upside down? That's right. All we're doing is working the chain stitches in reverse. You start off with what would normally be your last stitch: the final one to tack down the last loop. Of course, you can work them in any direction according to how you want them to appear on your pattern (just turn your hoop, silly).

I will never do the wrap-around-the-tip-of-your-needle-sewing-technique-push-and-pray way again. You can't make me.

Learn more embroidery stitches here!

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